The “crossover” is a tried-and-true crowd pleaser. Think monster movies like Godzilla vs. Kong or Alien vs. Predator which despite their campiness, draw in audiences from both franchises. Or, more recently Abbott Elementary and Always Sunny in Philadelphia’s collaborative episode where the two shows set in Philadelphia brought the characters together for shared bizarre hijinks. Pittsburgh’s restaurant scene is getting something of a “crossover” of some of the most talented and beloved people in the business in the form of Chef Csilla Thackray’s Titusz, an Austro-Hungarian restaurant in the former Merchant Oyster Co space in Lawrenceville.
Here’s the cast and their credits. Titusz has Dom Branduzzi (the man behind Grapperia), Chef Roger Li (Umami, The Parlor, Nanban), and Thackray’s husband, Sean Rosenkrans of Allegheny Wine Mixer. Oh, and the branding is Sarah Laponte of Fet-Fisk. It’s a crossover worthy of a blockbuster Marvel movie.
Titusz (pronounced tee-toos), has been a long time coming. When Merchant Oyster Co closed its doors in 2024, Thackray saw an opportunity. She observed in Li and Branduzzi a real desire to preserve the character in the restaurants they owned when the pair bought Allegheny Wine Mixer. “They let Allegheny Wine Mixer just be its own weird little self,” she said. “I thought ‘these people would be good to work with.’”
Thackray herself has a star-studded culinary resumé. She’s worked at Bar Marco, opened The Vandal with Chef Joey Hilty, and was Executive Chef at Churchview Farm. Now, she works in the kitchen at Fet-Fisk helping to consult on their culinary processes—“It’s Nik [Forsberg]’s baby, I just help take care of it,” she explained. She and Forsberg bonded over a shared interest in local produce and fermentation, which she hopes to incorporate into Titusz.
A Family Affair
The restaurant gets its name from Thackray’s great-grandfather, a larger-than-life figure who loved opera and sang it, too. He’s pictured in Titusz’s social media branding, sitting dignified with a glass of white wine. Titusz is a deeply personal project, borne out of Thackray’s interest in her heritage and closeness with her Hungarian-born grandmother, who came to Pittsburgh on a refugee sponsorship from a Hungarian church in Hazelwood. “She was in a displaced person’s camp after the Russians invaded, but then came to Pittsburgh, and married this little Italian hairdresser. She threw beautiful parties and cooked incredible food,” Thackray remembered.
The restaurant gets its name from Thackray’s great-grandfather, a larger-than-life figure who loved opera and sang opera. He’s pictured in the Titusz’s social media branding, sitting with his dignity and a glass of white wine. For the visuals, Laponte was even able to take Thackray’s great-grandmother’s handwriting from her passport and digitally create a logo.
What’s on the Menu at Titusz
What about the actual food? Thackray will have traditional staples like paprikash and stuffed cabbage but plans to incorporate her interest in produce and fermentation to make sure the menu has a balance to it, as well. “I want it to be the intersection of comfort and luxury, approachable food with an eye towards well-cared for hospitality. Great wine, great ambiance bringing that whole picture together with a touch of nostalgia but nothing that feels like you’ve stepped into a time machine,” she said. They’re also planning to hold a tasting menu once a week, with Central European wines curated by Rosenkrans.
For people who might be skeptical of the carb and meat heavy Central European fare, Thackray noted that “A huge part of my career is working with local farmers. So, part the beauty of this is combining that with the dishes I like. I’ve worked with the food long enough to keep it from becoming this ultra-heavy, gut-busting meal.” The positive response to her Hungarian dinner series at Churchview Farms was part of what inspired her to bring Titusz to life. “I realized I wanted to explore my heritage more in my cooking,” she said. “Hungarians have been through a lot as a people. This will be an homage to what my family went through.” She projects Titusz to open in the fall 2025, but time will tell the logistics of opening. Regardless, with Thackray’s vision, I already want to make a reservation.
Story by Emma Riva
Photo courtesy of Sarah Laponte & Csilla Thackray
Subscribe to TABLE Magazine’s print edition.
