There’s no end to the investment of toil and genius that goes into creating and maintaining a successful restaurant. Because the hardest work is usually done behind the scenes, it is often undervalued. Because there is frequently a team involved, it sometimes even goes unmentioned. In this year’s How to Pittsburgh issue, we wanted to take a moment to salute a few of the culinary magic-makers in our area. We are grateful for them, and appreciative of their commitment to excellence. They inspire us!
Chad Houser, Café Momentum Pittsburgh
268 Forbes Avenue, Downtown
Chad Houser, Founder and CEO of Café Momentum, has been named the 2025 James Beard Humanitarian of the Year. This honor from the James Beard Foundation recognizes exceptional selflessness and dedication to improving society and the lives of others. We have seen (and tasted) firsthand how the work of Café Momentum changes lives. Under Houser’s decade of leadership, Café Momentum combines culinary excellence with holistic support for justice-involved youth, equipping them with life skills, education, and employment opportunities to achieve their full potential. With locations in Dallas, Atlanta, Pittsburgh, and Denver, and more to come, Café Momentum is a game changer for so many.
“It has been the honor of my life to work alongside more than 1,200 justice-involved youth who have transformed their lives with the support of Café Momentum,” Houser says. “This award reflects the power and potential of every young person when we believe in them. When we provide the tools, resources, and opportunities they deserve, they rise every single time. Together, we are proving that every young person deserves a seat at the table.”
Roger Li and Dom Branduzzi
The Parlor Dim Sum, Umami Izakaya, Nanban, Allegheny Wine Mixer
Pittsburgh chefs Roger Li and Domenic Branduzzi have worked together time and time again to create interesting and flavorful dining opportunities for Pittsburghers. Their partnership has had a particularly important influence in Lawrenceville, where they have opened quite a few wonderful eateries.
Roger says their story began in 2016. “I had just launched Umami and was doing a ramen pop-up at Grapperia. It was a sold-out event, and it made me and Dominic interested in opening a ramen place. Then, during the construction phase of Ki Ramen, we were approached to look at a space next to it, which eventually became Ki Pollo. Since then, we evolved into the creation of The Parlor Dim Sum and Nanban, and we bought Allegheny Wine Mixer. I think the thing that makes it all work between me and Dom is that we both like to do things the right way.”
What’s next? They’re working with Chef Csilla Thackeray on Titusz, an Austrian-Hungarian restaurant which will occupy the space formerly held by Merchant Oyster Co. Titusz will honor Pittsburgh’s Central and Eastern European heritage.
Richard DeShantz and Tolga Sevdik
Golden Gai Izakaya, Gi-Jin, Meat & Potatoes, täkō, Fish nor Fowl, Coop De Ville, täkō tôrtä, Sally Ann’s
Last year’s How to Pittsburgh issue lauded DeShantz group’s Downtown sushi and gin joint, Gi-Jin. This year, we are compelled to call out Golden Gai, their new space in Bakery Square. In partnership with Co-Owner and Chef Michael Taylor, DeShantz Group immerses diners in a Tokyo-style izakaya. You could describe the food as Japanese-style tapas: small plates of delicious, substantial fare that pairs well with sake, Japanese whiskey, or a made-to-order craft cocktail. Plan on lingering a bit. You’ll want to try many dishes, and quite probably more than one order from the bar. If you’re not a veteran of izakaya dining, lean into staff recommendations. They will know where to guide you.
DeShantz restaurants focus on facets of culinary culture not abundantly explored in Pittsburgh. The décor of each establishment layers visual adventure onto the experience of the taste buds. Each restaurant in their constellation is its own universe. At its best, the group’s results are heady and memorable. Hats off once again to Richard DeShantz, Chef and Owner, Tolga Sevdik, Co-Owner and Chief Operating Officer.
Chef Mike Godlweski, EYV
424 East Ohio Street, North Side
“Cook what excites you, and it will show up on the plate,” declares Chef Mike Godlewski, chef/owner of North Side’s EYV (Eat Your Veggies). While he acknowledges that the environmental and cruelty-free aspects of vegetarian eating are philosophically important, and interesting to him, they are not what drives him to create absolutely delicious plates like Cabbage Pastrami and Vidalia Onion Chocolate Mousse. “I just love the challenge of making veggies something you crave. People are amazed about how much flavor we coax out of produce, and they can’t believe that they don’t miss the meat at all,” he says.
That doesn’t happen by accident. In the case of the aforementioned “pastrami,” brining, smoking, additions of coriander and black pepper prior to final cooking, and more, create an eating experience that is memorable. Go once, and you’re guaranteed to go again. “I’m told that our customers come back because they crave one or two of our mainstay items, but they end up most excited to see what new items we come up with each month,” explains Godlewski.
Rico Lorenzini, David Lorenzini, and Chef Dennis Deluca, Rico’s
1 Rico Lane, Ross Township
Rico’s, founded in 1979 by Tuscan-born Rico Lorenzini, is a cherished Pittsburgh institution known for its authentic Italian cuisine. Rico’s son, David, now manages the restaurant while Rico collaborates in the kitchen with Chef Dennis Deluca. You can count on freshly prepared veal, fish, and beef dishes, as well as pasta, salads, and a classic wine list that leans heavily into Italian bottles. Among TABLE staff favorites: to start, deep-fried zucchini planks and escargots. Follow this with prosciutto involtini filled with cheese and scallops sauteed and finished in the broiler with gorgeously seasoned breadcrumbs. But don’t be limited by our preferences: the menu is extensive.
It is often said that the vibe of a place comes directly from the top. It’s no surprise that the restaurant Rico started is known for its warmth and good service. It’s not only customers who feel it: the relationships fostered by Rico with servers, chefs, purveyors, and wineries are what make this place tick.
Chef Nik Forsberg, Fet-Fisk
4786 Liberty Avenue, Bloomfield
One of nine national finalists for the 2025 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant, Fet-Fisk has clearly made a big splash over the last year. It was also named one of America’s Best 50 Restaurants in The New York Times. Eater piled on a national accolade, as well. No surprise that It’s full every night (though Resy offers faint hope to the hungry with a waitlist). There’s nothing but good buzz out there about this Scandinavian-inflected restaurant focused on local sourcing and concerned with the well-being of its staff.
All of this is thanks to Chef Nik Forsberg, the founder and owner. He transformed a former Italian eatery in Bloomfield into a space that feels both nostalgic and fresh, like an on-trend piece of vintage clothing. His menu showcases Nordic flavors in dishes like pickled mackerel, roasted chicken with lingonberries and farmer’s cheese, and sea trout caviar served in a coupe glass. His social media keeps things friendly and light, as do “Crispy Mondays,” with their accessible offering of drink specials and wings. Like a studio producer of Hollywood’s Golden Age, he’s supported his vision with a host of just-right details. He has a blockbuster hit on his hands.
Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski, Apteka
4606 Penn Avenue, Bloomfield
Semi-finalists for the James Beard Awards’ Mid-Atlantic Best Chef prize in 2022, 2023, 2024, and 2025, Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski were also finalists in 2023. The New York Times included them in their 2022 list of 50 Best Restaurants in America, and they were lauded by Bon Appetite in 2019. This consistent torrent of adulation is well deserved. Their deeply original take on Eastern European cuisine is downright impressive, as is their commitment to veganism. So is the fact that after a meal at Apteka, it’s not the lack of meat you’ll be talking about, but rather how stunningly good it was, and how soon you can return.
There’s probably a reason all this deliciousness has unfolded in Pittsburgh. We’re a town that gets dishes like pierogis and golabki. We are down with a bowl of borscht. Same with potato dumplings. And schnitzel … even made with celeriac root. But someone had to come along and show us how the foods of those who came before us were not just relevant in the 21st century but absolutely worthy of our full attention.
Sam, Lori and Martina DiBattista, Vivo Kitchen
432 Beaver Street, Sewickley
Sam and Lori DiBattista founded Vivo Kitchen 25 years ago, moving from Ben Avon to Sewickley in 2010. It would be hard to overstate the importance of their always-full restaurant in this western suburb. Every night of service attracts a posse of super-regular patrons. Whether perched at the bar or seated at tables in the restaurant or out in the garden, all are engaged in lively conversation. All are clearly enjoying their dinners. There’s a warm, casual vibe. People feel absolutely at home.
This feeling comes directly from Sam and Lori, and from their daughter Martina (now General Manager). They’re supportive of a talented and professional team whose skill and humor are integral to the experience. They tend carefully to the look and feel of the place. First time diners and familiar faces get equal levels of TLC. Locally sourced ingredients and a thoughtfully flavorful take on modern classic cuisine keep the menu bright and interesting. (Try the Crispy Whole Chicken with Fried Garlic, and, even if you’re a meat lover, order one of their vegan specials.) Sam commented for this article that he hoped “people feel Vivo has become a part of the overall Sewickley experience.” Mission accomplished.
Story by TABLE Staff
Photography by Laura Petrilla
