Picture a landscape of rolling hills and lush forests. But, in the landscape, behemoth steel mills sit like dormant beasts along the edges of rivers. There’s immense natural beauty, but also many monuments to manmade power, too. This could be a description of western Pennsylvania, or it could describe southern Umbria near the city of Terni, the part of central Italy where Leonardo Bussoletti makes his wines. Winemaking, too, is about the balance of what human beings can and can’t control in nature. When we drink wine, it’s a connection to the natural world, to the earth, and to history both personal and geological.
Leonardo Bussoletti Connects Umbria and Pittsburgh Through Wine
The connection between Pittsburgh and Terni isn’t just a thematic one. Bussoletti’s own great-grandfather spent a portion of his life in Pittsburgh, working in the coal industry. “My great-grandfather established a profound connection with Pittsburgh during a pivotal period of his life,” Bussoletti said. “He spent several years in this vibrant city, where he was inspired by its industrious spirit, resilience, and innovative energy. His experiences in Pittsburgh not only broadened his horizons but also instilled in him the values of hard work and determination.”
“Room for Emotions” in Winemaking
If you’re less familiar with Italian wines, maybe you think Sangiovese or Chianti, or a Super Tuscan, and your train of thought stops there. But one of the most rewarding things about wine is that there’s always something new to learn, and Italy has over 1300 grape varieties. At his winery, Bussoletti focuses on three: Ciliegiolo, Grecchetto, and Trebbiano Spolettino. Ciliegiolo, meaning “little cherry,” is typically a blending grape, with a prominent tasting note of, you guessed it, cherry. Grecchetto is a white grape known for its minerality and intense aromatics. Then, Trebbiano Spolettino is an Umbrian regional variant of the Trebbiano grape, a white variety with an elegance and longevity to it.
“Together, these grapes allow us to craft wines that are a true expression of our territory—honoring tradition while offering wines with distinctive, authentic flavors that stand out in quality and character,” Bussoletti said. Like all winemakers, he has to balance tradition with modernity. Leonardo Bussoletti Wines is certified organic by Suolo e Salute, the Italian body that governs sustainability in the wine industry, making them organic.
The tagline on Bussoletti’s website reads “There is still room for emotions.” It’s easy to fall into the trap of reciting a rote list of tasting notes and aromas at the expense of a wine’s character. But with Bussoletti’s wines, there’s a playfulness to his presentation, from the bottling to the winemaking techniques themselves.
He’s also found ways to get involved in the arts as a winemaker. He spearheaded Ciliegiolo for Art, a collaborative project where Bussoletti contributes a portion of Ciliegiolo di Narni sales to the restoration of a centuries-old fresco in the Convent of St. Augustine of Narni in Umbria.
Grapes with Character
The “Asla” Ciliegiolo di Narni—part of a series called “The Chronicles of Narnia” to riff off the word Narni—is a refreshingly acidic, low tannin bottle. Aromas of currant and cherry make way for tasting notes of black pepper, or perhaps a hint of tobacco. Something about it feels resilient and tough, like the lion on its label. It doesn’t feel like just another restaurant wine, but rather something with character. Its acidity could leaven a heavy meal, and sometimes that’s exactly what is needed.
His “Rámici” cellar reserve Ciliegiolo di Narni is a more mature take on the grape: cohesive, smooth, and full-bodied. Though Cilegiolo is known for its red fruit flavor, the berries aren’t overwhelming or overly jammy the way perhaps an unbalanced Zinfandel can be.
Grechetto stands out among whites for its aroma. You could sit at a table smelling it for as long as it takes to drink it. A delicate perfume, your mind wanders as your nose absorbs it—I smelled vanilla, dried flowers, and a hint of orange blossom. The “Colleozio” cellar reserve from Bussoletti’s winery is a wonderful Grechetto, especially for those who don’t usually gravitate towards white wine. It has a complexity to it that red wine drinkers skeptical about white grapes will appreciate.
Where to Find the Wines in Pittsburgh
Just as Busoletti’s great-grandfather traveled from Umbria to Pittsburgh to support his family, Bussoletti’s wines make a similar overseas journey. His bottles are available at a number of Italian restaurants in Pittsburgh including Bar Marco, Pino’s, Cucina Vitale, and Vallozzi’s. They are also available through Allora Wine Group.
Next time you’re ready for a toast, ditch American cliches about Italian wine and branch out to some different grapes. As Bussoletti says, “Ultimately, we desire that our wine be a celebration of life’s special moments, offering a sense of comfort and joy that lingers long after the glass is empty.”
Story by Emma Riva
Photo courtesy of Leonardo Bussoletti
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