Cortina d’Ampezzo has always been a borderland. It is in the province of Belluno in the Veneto region, and was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for more than a century until Cortina was annexed by Italy in 1918, at the end of World War I. From Veneto, Cortina has certainly inherited polenta, which is often served with game meats, but local cuisine is generally heavily inspired by traditions from Austria and South Tyrol. This is where speck comes in. It’s one of the most famous cured meats of the Tyrolean region and one of the Dolomites’ culinary specialties. Speck is produced from boneless pork leg. It is both cured and smoked, which gives it a more intense flavor than its cousin, prosciutto.
Chef Sara Ghedina’s Tips for Ampezzo-Style Potatoes
Ampezzo-style potatoes are a warm and comforting side dish made with a few simple ingredients, but their flavor is so intense and unique that it immediately puts you in a “Dolomite mood.” Perfect for dinner after a day spent on the ski slopes, these potatoes can also be served as a main dish along with a green salad and a thick slice of local cheese. Quantities for this recipe are very approximate. My suggestion is to eyeball everything and use your instinct to add the ingredients in the amount your heart desires. If you can’t find speck, use smoked pancetta or bacon instead. The result will not have the same distinct flavor, but it will be equally satisfying.
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Ampezzo-Style Potatoes
- Yield: Serves 4
Description
A rustic Dolomite dish made with golden potatoes, sweet onions, and smoky speck.
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lb potatoes such as Yukon Gold
- 2 small red onions
- 1/4 lb speck, cut in thick slices
- 4–5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Wash potatoes thoroughly, removing any residual dirt. Cut them in half and leave them in a bowl of water for at least 15 minutes. This will help remove starch and prevent them from sticking together while cooking.
- Drain and rinse, then place them in a large pot, cover with cold water. Add salt. Simmer for 20-30 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. They should be slightly softened, but still firm.
- Remove from heat and drain. Let them cool off, then peel if you’d like (I prefer to leave the skin on for this recipe). Cut them in thick slices or chunks and set aside.
- Cut speck into thick strips about 3/4 inch long. You could also dice, if you prefer.
- Peel and slice onions and set them aside.
- Heat 2 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil in a large pan. Add speck and cook for 2-3 minutes until crispy. Place them on a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil and let cool off.
- In the same pan, add 2-3 tablespoons olive oil. When hot, add the potatoes and sauté over high heat until golden brown: they should get a little crunchy on the outside. Add the sliced onions and sauté for another 10-15 minutes until onions get soft.
- Season with salt and pepper, add the reserved speck stripes, cook for another few minutes and serve.
Recipe, Styling and Photography by Sara Ghedina
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