Jamilka Borges and Dianne DeStefano opened Lilith in 2023, and so far, it’s been a roaring hit in the Pittsburgh dining scene. The space has gorgeous décor and lighting, and each plate comes out on a floral porcelain dish. When we spoke to DeStefano and Borges in 2023, DeStefano, said that her vision was for “no QR codes, more detailed service, more relaxing experience […] we want people to feel like they’re being treated. We believe in hospitality as an art form.” Two years out, Lilith shows no sign of slowing down. For our Proust Questionnaire series, Jamilka Borges shared why hospitality is important to her, what her dream night out is, what she’d do if she wasn’t a chef.
Proust Questionnaire with Chef Jamilka Borges
Your favorite qualities in a restaurant or chef?
Intentionality and thoughtfulness. Places like Chez Panisse and Chef Alice Waters, Kelly Whitaker at Basta and Wolf’s Tailor come to mind. Locally, it is not a secret that I worship Dish and how amazing their hospitality and food is.
Your strongest characteristic as a chef?
It’s always hard to think about myself, but probably being able to adapt and change very quickly. I’m also a cheerleader for people who I believe in and trust. I lead by example. I would never ask anyone to do something that I wasn’t able to do myself.
One word or phrase to describe your restaurant?
Unapologetically feminine and ours.
What inspired you to become a chef?
My father died by suicide when I was 18. I cope with this loss by cooking for people. That ignited the fire and love for food and hospitality.
What do you appreciate most in your sous chefs?
Our Sous Chef Lizzie Sestito, aka Lizzie Styles, is incredible. She has worked at some of the best restaurants in the world, and she came to Pittsburgh via her husband’s medical fellowship (thanks, Dr. Sam). She’s kind and smart and is able to also move and adapt with our farmers’ availability.
Your favorite ingredient?
Uni, oysters.
Your idea of a great evening out?
My partner, Chef Dianne and I, and our significant others start with snacks at Balvanera, go to see the Pittsburgh Opera or any other show, have dinner at Dish, and finish with a nightcap at Solera Wine Bar.
Your guilty pleasure meal?
Beef and cheese empanadas, fried.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
Probably a humans rights lawyer or something related to policy…or, a pilot(that was my childhood dream)
What’s the best meal you’ve ever had?
So many come to mind: Many meals at Olmsted through the years, Le Bernardin lunch with Sommelier Sarah Thomas in 2017, Verde Mesa in Old San Juan, Vianda in Santurce both during a trip back to Puerto Rico in 2022.
If you could make a dinner reservation anywhere in the world, where would it be?
Core by Clare Smyth, Mixtli in San Antonio, Arzak in San Sebastian.
Story by Emma Riva
Photo courtesy of Jamilka Borges
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