Two chefs, one with German roots, the other Irish-Ukrainian, walk into the kitchen of a restaurant housed in what looks like a French chateau. What do they cook? The Feast of the Seven Fishes, an Italian American Christmas Eve tradition, of course!
The Seven Fishes with Chefs Gary Klinefelter and Chris O’Brien
It’s not as unusual as it might seem. Gary Klinefelter works with Chefs Helping Chefs International to assist great kitchens in becoming even greater. Chris O’Brien, chef-owner at Hyeholde, is married to an Italian American who has fond memories of her childhood holiday feasts. “My wife has wanted to do this for a long time,” says Chef Chris, who hosted the event at Hyeholde in Moon Township.
Brodetto di Pesce (Tomato Seafood Stew)
Unlike stereotypical dueling chefs, these veteran restaurateurs with very different culinary styles seamlessly created a memorable holiday meal for a dozen guests. It’s easy to collaborate, the chefs agree, when you’ve known each other since North Hills High School and your wives (Chris’s wife is Jen; Gary’s is Lauren), have been friends “forever.” Both men were high school athletes who knew early on they wanted to cook. In pre-Food Network days, they watched Julia Child and read Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volumes I & II.
Grilled Octopus and Warm Potato Salad
“I grew up in a family that was continuously running back and forth to sports, so we never had a ton of family dinners,” says Chris. “Maybe one reason I enjoy food so much is because it brings people together.” Gary started out washing dishes in a restaurant to pay for his expensive ski equipment.
Seafood with Pancetta and Caramelized Fennel
Post-high school, they pursued degrees, apprenticeships, and increasingly important cooking jobs in venues and cities around the world before returning to Pittsburgh. Back home, they each played a role in helping to build a nationally recognized food culture.
What is The Feast of the Seven Fishes?
The Feast of the Seven Fishes is not on any official church calendars and there is no agreement on its significance. Some say it refers to the Seven Deadly Sins or the Seven Hills of Rome; others think it represents the Seven Sacraments of the Catholic Church or the Seven Days of the Week. In all likelihood, it was the invention of early 20th century Italian immigrants to the United States who were creating new traditions in their new homeland, while fondly remembering what they loved about the culture that raised them. Historical details aside, Seven Fishes is a much-loved tradition celebrated in homes and restaurants across our country.
Fried Calamari and Smelts
For Chris and Gary’s feast, the guests were an extension of family—Hyeholde staff. The requisite long hours and teamwork mean “sometimes you have more of a relationship with your work family than your actual family,” Chris says.
Having worked together before, the chefs have an easy rhythm. They begin by brainstorming on the phone. “We kind of divide things up,” says Chris. “Gary takes a course. I take a course. I say, ‘I’m thinking about doing this.’ He says, ‘Awesome, I’ll do something different.’ It’s fun. We go back to the drawing board, and then it’s I’ll see you on the day of.”
The Hyeholde on a winter afternoon.
Bringing Intimacy to a Feast
Their goal for the feast was to create a warm family gathering by serving upscale but not intimidating takes on the classic ingredients, such as smelts, clams, mussels, halibut, shrimp, anchovies, calamari and scallops. “We wanted homey, rustic food,” says Chris. “Good food done with integrity that might look fancy on a plate, but nothing you couldn’t do by yourself.” Adds Gary, “We did mostly traditional items but put our twist on them. Everything was approachable, not too too crazy!”
On the aforementioned day of, Gary prepped his dishes and brought what he needed to Hyeholde. Then, he and Chris started cooking and tasting each other’s stuff. “More times than not, there’s a lot of stress making sure you get every detail done,” says Chris, “but we just took a deep breath and had fun.”
They couldn’t join their guests at the table, but they heard plenty of “Wows,” both from Italian Americans familiar with the tradition, as well as first-timers. In addition to the gorgeous presentation of the fishes, an artfully decorated table, candlelight, and softly falling snow outside the window upped the essence. And, of course, there was plenty of wine.
Scungili Salad and Roasted Lemon Potatoes
Going Beyond the Meal
Months later, when they were interviewed for this article, neither chef remembered what he had cooked — they needed pictures to remind them. “It wasn’t about any one dish,” explains Gary. “I loved the food, but honestly, it’s the friendship and camaraderie that Chris and I have working together. The mutual respect. It’s magical.” Chris says he‘d cook this meal on a Sunday for friends. That means, with a little extra effort, you can probably do it, too.
Broiled Lobster Tails and Fresh Pasta
The Menu at Gary Klinefelter and Chris O’Brien’s Feast of the Seven Fishes
Brodetto di Pesce (Tomato Seafood Stew)
Grilled Octopus and Warm Potato Salad
Seafood with Pancetta and Caramelized Fennel
Broiled Lobster Tails with Pernod Sauce and Fresh Pasta
Story by Susan Fleming Morgans / Food by Chef Gary Klinefelter, Helping Chefs International, and Chef Chris O’Brien, Hyeholde / Styling by Anna Franklin / Production by Star Laliberte / Photography by Joey Kennedy / Shot on location at Hyeholde
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