Chef Roger Li has never been one to leave a classic alone. He’s behind some of Pittsburgh’s most inventive restaurants, including Lawrenceville izakaya Umami and The Parlor Dim Sum. So it’s no surprise that his Thanksgiving turkey takes a detour through Korea and Vietnam on its way to the table.

The bird soaks for a day in buttermilk spiked with the tangy brine from a jar of kimchi. Then it dries uncovered for another day and roasts at 375°F until the skin is deep mahogany and crackly. The gravy is the real showstopper. Li builds it on a pho broth of beef bones simmered for four hours with charred ginger and onion, black cardamom, cloves, star anise and peppercorns. He seasons the broth with rock sugar, fish sauce and a little MSG, then thickens it with a dark, nutty roux.

Li shares the recipe on Pittsburgh Today Live on November 12 as part of TABLE’s turkey recipe series benefiting the KDKA Turkey Fund. You can donate online, at any PNC Bank branch or by texting KDTURKEY to 50155.

How Does a Kimchi and Buttermilk Brine Work?

Buttermilk is a classic Southern trick for tender fried chicken, and it works the same way on turkey. Its mild acidity and calcium gently loosen the proteins near the surface, so the meat stays juicy and tender. Kimchi brine is the leftover liquid in the jar after the cabbage is gone. It’s salty and fresh with some zing from fermentation, so the turkey picks up a savory tang without being too hot to handle. Well-aged kimchi makes for the most flavorful brine.

The 24-hour rest on a rack in the refrigerator matters just as much as the brine. Air-drying pulls moisture from the skin, and dry skin is what turns crisp and glossy in the oven.

How Do You Make Pho Broth for Gravy?

Start by charring the ginger and onion. Use a gas flame, the broiler or a dry cast-iron skillet until they’re blackened in spots. Toast the whole spices in a dry pan for a minute or two to release their oils, then tie them in cheesecloth so they’re easy to fish out. Simmer everything with the beef bones and water at a gentle bubble for four hours, skimming any foam. Then strain and season.

Li’s seasoning follows tradition. Rock sugar rounds out the spices, fish sauce adds salty depth and MSG boosts the savory flavor. For the gravy, cook equal parts oil and flour slowly until the roux is the color of milk chocolate, then whisk in two quarts of hot broth. A dark roux has less thickening power than a light one but much more flavor, so simmer until the gravy coats a spoon.

Can I Use Store-Bought Broth Instead of Homemade Pho Broth?

Yes, if you’re short on time. Simmer 2 quarts of low-sodium beef broth with a few slices of charred ginger and onion and a pinch of each spice for 45 minutes, then strain and season. To speed up the homemade version, pressure-cook a half batch in an 8-quart Instant Pot on high for 1½ hours, then let the pressure release naturally.

Can I Make It Dairy-Free or Gluten-Free?

For a dairy-free brine, stir 2 tablespoons of lemon juice or white vinegar into 1 quart of unsweetened plain soy or oat milk and let it sit for 10 minutes before adding the kimchi brine. For gluten-free gravy, make the roux with a gluten-free all-purpose flour blend or sweet rice flour. You can also skip the roux and thicken the hot broth with a slurry of ¼ cup cornstarch and ¼ cup cold water. Check the labels on your kimchi and fish sauce, since some brands add wheat.

What Can I Do with Leftover Pho Broth?

The broth recipe makes about twice what the gravy needs, which is exactly the point. The day after Thanksgiving, reheat the extra broth and pour it over rice noodles, thinly sliced leftover turkey, bean sprouts, Thai basil, lime and sliced chiles for a quick leftover turkey pho. The broth keeps for up to four days in the refrigerator and three months in the freezer. Make it the weekend before Thanksgiving, then brine the turkey Tuesday, dry it Wednesday and roast it Thursday.

What Can I Serve with Kimchi Buttermilk Turkey?

Lean into the fusion. Steamed jasmine rice soaks up the pho gravy, and Alessandra Pilkington’s Kimchi Baked Brussels Sprouts echo the brine. Classic mashed potatoes are just as good under that gravy. To drink, pour an off-dry Riesling, a Japanese lager or a Beaujolais.

Tips for Success

• Use a brining bag. Five cups of brine won’t cover a whole turkey in a pot. In a sealed bag with the air pressed out, the brine coats the whole bird. Turn the bag a few times while it soaks.
• Wipe, don’t rinse. Let the excess buttermilk drip off before drying the bird. Thick patches scorch at 375°F.
• Trust a thermometer. Pull the turkey when the thickest part of the thigh reads 165°F, then rest it for 30 minutes before carving.
• Season the broth last. Fish sauce and MSG are potent, so add them gradually and taste.
• Watch for allergens. Kimchi often includes salted shrimp, and fish sauce is made from anchovies. Let guests with fish or shellfish allergies know.

Looking for more turkey inspiration? Chef Kevin Hermann’s Thanksgiving Smoked Turkey Tamales give the holiday bird a Southwestern spin.

Chef Kristin Butterworth’s Spruce and Hickory Turkey Brine With Stuffing Bread Pudding is a woodsy, comforting addition to your table.

Our leftover turkey recipes and Homemade Stock Recipes put every last bit to work. 

Get to know Li in his Proust Questionnaire, then cook from his Sunday Supper with his Taro Dumplings and Sauce and Steamed Ribs. Round out the feast with our 50 Thanksgiving Side Recipes.

Kimchi and Buttermilk Brined Turkey With Pho Gravy

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• Author: Chef Roger Li
• Total Time: 57 hours
• Yield: 12 to 14 servings 1x

Print Recipe

Description

A juicy Thanksgiving turkey brined in buttermilk and tangy kimchi brine, air-dried for crisp skin and roasted until golden. It comes with a rich gravy made from star anise-scented pho broth and a dark roux.

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Ingredients

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For the turkey:

• 1 whole turkey (12 to 14 lb), giblets removed, neck reserved
• 1 qt buttermilk
• 1 cup kimchi brine (the liquid from a jar of kimchi)
• 2 tbsp kosher salt (optional; see notes)

For the pho broth:

• 10 lb beef bones
• 6 oz fresh ginger, charred
• 6 oz onion, charred
• 1 oz black cardamom pods
• 1 oz whole cloves
• 1 oz star anise
• 1 oz black peppercorns
• 2 gal water
• 4 oz rock sugar
• 2 tbsp kosher salt
• 1 tbsp MSG
• ½ cup fish sauce

For the pho gravy:

• ¾ cup neutral oil
• ¾ cup all-purpose flour
• 2 qt pho broth (from above)

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Instructions

1. Brine and dry the turkey
2. Whisk the buttermilk, kimchi brine and salt (if using) together.
3. Place the turkey in a large brining bag and pour in the brine. Press out the air, seal, and massage the brine over the bird. Set in a pan and refrigerate for 24 hours, turning the bag a few times.
4. Remove the turkey and let the excess brine drip off. Pat dry, set on a rack over a sheet pan, and refrigerate uncovered for 24 hours.

Make the pho broth:

1. Char the ginger and onion over a gas flame, under the broiler or in a dry cast-iron skillet until blackened in spots.
2. Toast the cardamom, cloves, star anise and peppercorns in a dry pan for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Tie them in cheesecloth.
3. Combine the bones, ginger, onion, spices and water in a large stockpot. Bring to a boil, then lower to a gentle simmer for 4 hours, skimming foam as needed.
4. Strain. Season with the rock sugar, salt, MSG and fish sauce, adding them gradually and tasting as you go.

Roast the turkey:

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Let the turkey sit at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes.
2. Roast on a rack in a roasting pan until the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165°F, about 2½ to 3 hours. Tent with foil if the skin browns too quickly.
3. Rest for 30 minutes before carving.

Make the pho gravy:

1. Heat the 2 quarts of pho broth.
2. In a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat, cook the oil and flour, stirring constantly, until the roux is the color of milk chocolate, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Slowly whisk in the hot broth. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, until thick enough to coat a spoon. Season to taste and serve with the turkey.

Notes

Leftover broth: The broth makes about 4 quarts. Use the extra for turkey pho. Refrigerate up to 4 days or freeze up to 3 months.

Shortcut broth: Simmer 2 quarts of low-sodium beef broth with charred ginger, onion and a pinch of each spice for 45 minutes.

Dairy-free: Replace the buttermilk with 1 quart of unsweetened soy or oat milk soured with 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.

Gluten-free: Make the roux with a gluten-free flour blend, or thicken with ¼ cup cornstarch mixed with ¼ cup cold water. Check the labels on the kimchi and fish sauce.

Allergens: Kimchi and fish sauce may contain fish or shellfish.

• Prep Time: 45 minutes
• Additional Time: 48 hours 30 minutes
• Cook Time: 7 hours 45 minutes
• Category: Main Course
• Method: Roasting
• Cuisine: Asian Fusion

Nutrition

• Serving Size: 6 oz
• Calories: 480

About the Recipe Author

Chef Roger Li is the chef and restaurateur behind some of Pittsburgh’s most inventive restaurants. They include Umami, a speakeasy-style izakaya in Lawrenceville, and The Parlor Dim Sum, known for its dim sum and Cantonese barbecue. He has also run Ki Ramen and Ki Pollo. Li moved to Pittsburgh from Philadelphia in 2008 and has hosted Sunday suppers for friends ever since.

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