The Pacific Northwest is home to countless special places, and its largest island — Whidbey Island — is certainly no exception. This 55-mile-long, Puget Sound treasure makes a lasting impression thanks to its mystical beauty, its eclectic constellation of towns, and its accessibility from Seattle via ferry and/or car.

Travel to Whidbey Island for an Escape at Captain Whidbey and Beyond

Though I spent more than 11 years in this exquisite corner of the country, I’ve admittedly grown even more attached to Whidbey since returning east. Once firmly on its soil, there’s no better home base than Captain Whidbey, a six-acre property that’s nestled along the water and amongst some of Washington State’s old growth fir trees. Think twinkle lights, fire pits, a chef’s garden, reimagined historic buildings, a 112-year-old fireplace, and an immediate immersion into nature that sets your heart at ease. (On pristine summer days, kayaking off their private dock is a must.)

Last summer, I had the good fortune of arriving here for a dear friend’s vow renewal festivities. The pandemic had disrupted their initial wedding plans, creating a five-year delay before the celebration. The delayed celebration felt sprinkled with stardust from the start, especially during our feast beneath the island’s ancient trees. We feasted at long, wildflower-adorned tables, perched beneath the island’s ancient trees.

The Enchanting Beauty of Captain Whidbey

Sean Prater, culinary director at Captain Whidbey since October 2021, tries to summarize the island’s breathtaking allure, found “in any season and any flavor of weather.” “It’s not a distant escape,” he says, “but it feels a world away.” (Added bonus: sitting in a rain shadow created by the Olympic Mountains means they get notably less rain here than in Seattle.)

In Prater’s mind, something about their charming venue harkens to an earlier era. “Captain Whidbey embodies that spirit of revisiting a time when the world was slower and you were able to simply sit back and take in the beauty of your surroundings,” he says.

“We hear it from guests. We hear it from staff,” he adds. “The gardens, the creaking floors, the rush of everyone to the deck when the orcas swim by.”

Staying at Captain Whidbey

This historic inn offers 30 rooms, suites, and cabins, each with its own distinctive quirks. Features like slanted floorboards add charm, enhanced by the warmth found throughout every space. At the welcoming onsite restaurant, locally sourced ingredients are featured whenever possible. The menu provides a taste of the island’s finest and most seasonal offerings.

Through ever-changing dishes, the kitchen honors the island’s 17,000 acres of farmland. Prater says these fields produce “the tastiest berries, most vibrant beets, creamiest cheeses,” and prized wild mushrooms. These secret mushrooms are admired by foragers around the world.

Local Ingredients and Farm Partnerships

This year, they’re continuing partnerships with families and artisans who distribute goods through their local co-op. “Three Sisters Farm is a stone’s throw across Penn Cove from where you can sit and enjoy the lamb they rear. We braise it for hours into a delectable, unctuous dish paired with herbs from our own garden — and tender roots grown down at Owl Haven or Foggy Hill Farm,” he says.

Summer is the perfect season to enjoy local Chinook salmon as it travels up the Columbia River, Prater promises. He says the fatty King salmon deserves bold flavors that balance its richness. He recommends roasted radishes, floral lentils, and house-churned lemon butter made with Springbrook Cream. And he also suggests pairing it with a cocktail featuring CW Amaro. Alternatively, choose a refreshing Alsatian-style wine made from bright western Washington-grown grapes. The wine helps cut through the fish’s rich, satisfying flavors.

Prater’s team loves working as “a small family, at a small inn, on a smallish island.” One colleague even likened it to going to camp every day. “On the toughest of days, you can look over at the sparkling waters of Penn Cove, still as glass, and think, ‘Worth it,’” Prater reflects.

After witnessing a full moon rise from the dock, among awed guests from around the globe, I too fell under Whidbey’s enchanting spell.

Where to Visit on Whidbey Island

Getting There

While many enter the island from the south end via the 20-minute Mukilteo-Clinton ferry, others drive in from the north to experience stunning sites like Rosario Beach and Deception Pass State Park. (Those coming from the Olympic Peninsula can take a ferry from Port Townsend to Coupeville, too.)

Fun on the Water

In spring and summer months, explore surrounding waters with kayaking, canoeing, or swimming (for brave souls unafraid of brisk temps).

Check out Wharf Dog Paddle and Pantry or Whidbey Island Kayaking for canoe, SUP, and kayak rentals, or hop aboard Deception Pass Tours for whale watching and wildlife spotting.

Walks and Hikes

On the island’s south end, savor natural beauty at Double Bluff, one of the country’s best dog-friendly beaches. Twenty miles north, enjoy a 5.6-mile round-trip hike along the stunning bluffs and beaches of Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve.

Also explore the tranquil trails of Meerkerk Gardens, which span acres of exquisitely maintained gardens surrounded by 43 acres of peaceful woodland. (The gardens reach peak bloom in late April and May.)

Exploring Langley

Visit the Whale Center, wander shops and galleries showing off local talent, and enjoy tasty fare at restaurants like Flower House Cafe (for breakfast) Langley Kitchen (lunch) plus Saltwater Fish House & Oyster Bar or sibling restaurant Prima Bistro.

Discovering Coupeville

Wander the town that played host to Sandra Bullock and Nicole Kidman for the filming of cult classic Practical Magic. Savor the island’s coveted Penn Cove mussels at friendly spots like Toby’s Tavern, Front Street Grill, and The Oystercatcher.

Get your afternoon boost at cafes like Sunshine Drip, where you’ll find plant-based baked goods and coffee sourced from two local roasters, Moka Joe Organic Coffee and Mukilteo Coffee Roasters.

Dining on Whidbey Island

For the ultimate treat, book a reservation at Orchard Kitchen, an intimate dining space set in the middle of the owners’ organic farm. Vincent and Tyla Nattress say, “We are an omnivore’s dining destination with a farm-to-table ethos,” as they happily collaborate with local farmers, vintners, cheesemakers, chefs, and oystermen.

In the Area

For more island magic, book a stay on the nearby San Juans.

On neighboring Camano, grab brunch at Cama Beach Cafe before wandering the trails of Camano Island State Park, zip-line through the forest at Canopy Tours Northwest, or grab drinks and vegan-friendly fare at Tapped Public House.

Story by Corinne Whiting

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